Arrived last night around 6pm; took the metro to our hostel (very easy). I nearly nodded off several times, and almost had a heart attack trying to board the metro with my heavy 75lb+ suitcases. It was almost surreal to step outside of the subway station and look up and see the acropolis just behind us! Dragged the luggage up to our 2nd floor studio in the tiny, 1-person elevator. Then went hunting for the restaurant "Ambrosia" recommended by the guy who checked us in at the hostel. Realized we couldn't really read Greek (we strived to recall as much of the Greek alphabet as we had learned in algebra, trigonometry and calculus). Also realized we didn't even know how to say thank you in Greek! (It's Efharisto.) The word we did know was "ne" which means yes (and is accompanied by a head shake. The word for "no" is accompanied by a head nod.) Nevertheless, we found Ambrosia and enjoyed a real Greek salad with a huge slab of sheep-y feta cheese, hot lentil-tomato-onion soup and a 'gyro pie' which actually came with French fries on top. Realized the olive oil here is exceptionally good. That's why Rick Steves calls it one of the 4 pillars of Greek cuisine (along with tomatoes, phyllo dough, and feta). Exhausted, we strolled back to our studio and conked out at 10pm.
Woke up absurdly early (4am local time, though I looked at my clock and it said 6:15; five minutes later I realize it's still on CA time) and tried unsuccessfully to fall back asleep. Rolled out of bed at 6:30 to shower in our tiny hostel bathroom. The squeegie doesn't work too well. Breakfast at the bar with fresh bread, strawberry jam, cheese and hot tea. Then Rachel and I started our own walking tour of the city. Realized the Greeks don't really get going until about 11:30-noon. The streets were almost deserted until then. Wandered around the arch of Hadrian, which apparently constructed to honor Emperor Hadrian. Cars fly by it like it's nbd. Thanks to Anna, that acronym has become Rachel and my signature comment about our travels here in Athens. Oh, are those some ruins? Ancient columns? 3,000 years old? Nbd! Oranges growing every few meters on the sidewalk, nbd.
We walked over to the Parliament building at Syntagma square. Observed the changing of the guards at 9am at the tomb of the unknown soldier. Those soldier guards have a quite a stride! They must do some ballet-like stretching. We loved their pompom-ed shoes too! 400 pleats in their uniform skirt to represent the 400 years under Ottoman rule.
Then we meandered through the National garden, enjoying the fresh citrus-filled air as a welcome respite from the polluted city air of the streets. Found some cute ponds, a petting zoo, peacocks and chased the Greek soldiers (with blue berets) down the street as they marched past. Strolled along Amalia street, then into the Plaka district with many not-yet-open tavernas. Quaint crooked streets, shops selling strange things like sponges.... little churches in the middle of the block. Lots of stray dogs everywhere! Vendors selling rounded sesame-covered breads. Found a place to get a cup of hot tea (Forte tea actually -- white pear) and do some serious people watching. Greek people are very confused when Rachel asks for hot water. Continued along the neighborhoods into Anafiotika -- a neighborhood with very narrow cobblestoned streets, staircases and little houses, lots of stray cats, and moss, all of which hugs the base of the acropolis. Amazing views of the city--I didn't realize how huge and sprawling it was! Beautiful sunlight illuminated patches of the city -- looks like the greek gods had chosen their favorites for the day. I'm excited to climb the hill of the wolves, too (it's actually the hill of Lykavittos, the highest point in Athens rising 270 metres above the megalopolis. It is a pine covered hill visible from every part of the city. The name of the hill means "hill of the wolves" and the legend says that this name derives from the ancient times when the wolves roamed freely on the hill, then surrounded by countryside)... to me, it looks like a castle from a fairy tale at the top of the mountain up there.
After exploring the numerous stairwells, pointing out the adorable cats curled up under trees and chairs and descending back to the wider roads, we came to the Roman Agora, located on the north side of the Acropolis, and a short distance from the Greek Agora, with which it was connected by a paved street. An inscription on the the monumental Gate of Athena Archegetis ("Athena the Leader") indicates that Julius Caesar and Augustus funded its construction in the 1st century B.C. The Roman Agora consists of a large, open-air courtyard surrounded by colonnades on all four sides. Now most of the columns are crumbling, but you can still get a sense of how the market was set up. On the eastern side, there were also a series of shops. The Roman Agora apparently became the main market of the city, taking over many of the commercial functions of the Greek Agora, which had become something of an archaeological park by that time. On the southern side was a fountain. At its east side is also a public latrine (you can still see the little canal to drain away waste and you can see a slab of rock with several holes to sit on...) and the "Tower of the Winds" (a tall, octagonal building designed by a famous astronomer Andronikos of Kyrrhos to be an elaborate water clock on the inside, a sundial on the outside, and have a weather vane on top). It was probably constructed in the mid-2nd centry B.C. -- Hellenistic period.
After exploring the Roman Agora, we walked along Hadrian's library and into the Monastiraki district with its many shops, flea markets (I guess you could say, the modern agora?). Laughed at the many kitsch tourist-y souvenir vendors with random paintings, knick-knacks, etc. Then we used our trusty Lonely Planet guidebook to find a place for lunch. Decided on Filema and tried to walk over there (the streets here do NOT go straight -- so navigation is quite tricky and often screws up our reasonably good sense of direction.)
At Filema, we were warmly welcomed by two avuncular waiters. Tried the "Eggplant salad" -- babaganoush-like dip-- and baked sardines (heads, spines and all!). Absolutely delicious, as were the olives we enjoyed on the house. Our kindly waiter gave us a recommendation for a bar, warned to steer clear of the omonia district ("greek ghetto?") and wished joy and happiness upon us and all our loved ones. So sweet haha
Then we ventured over, past Stygmata square to the Museum of Clycladic Art. Lots of violin-shaped marble sculptures, feminine statues and sculptures (all with arms crossed, knees slight bent -- do they have to go to bathroom? suffering cramps? recently impregnated? all unclear). Early cycladic culture = 32000-2000 BC. So old but look strangely modern. I loved the "stargazer" sculpture -- so simple but with a delicate nose undoubtedly admiring the heavens. According to our guide, these sculptures with "their austere simplicity and abstract quality have inspired artists of the 20th century such as Pablo Picasso, etc." I love all the gold-foil jewelery too. Saw some cool gold haircoils (spiral shaped often), early coins, pottery that threw us back to 6th grade art classes (black figure and red figure varieties). It's amazing that the Greeks used potter wheels (foot powered) way back then. The little glass bottles. we learned, were among the most valued and difficult to make -- they were often used to store perfumes.
At the top floor of the museum we learned all kinds of things about daily life in ancient Greece. "Gymnasium" means "place where you practice sports naked" and most girls married at age 14. The symposiums were gatherings centered around drinking as well as philosophical discussions. Lives of women were closely tied to spinning, weaving and domestic work. The only females allowed into the symposiums were dancers and musicians. The "stadium" footrace was 600 ft long and may have been the only event in the first Olympic games...
In the Cycladic museum, we became extremely exhausted and so after we headed back to the hostel for a brief (nearly 3 hour...) nap. Awoke surprised by refreshed, ventured to a little market to get Greek yogurt and bananas, then scouted out a place to eat. Ended up at the Lonely Planet-recommended "Kanella" (means Cinnamon) in the Gatzi district. Had delicious zucchini-avocado-aged cheese salad, a lettuce-carrot-dill salad in yogurt dressing and a cheese pie (made with several different cheeses and phyllo dough) and their homemade bread. Greeks eat late, we've noticed -- we probably sat down around 8:30pm. After we headed to a bar and asked the bartender what he recommended. Tried traditioned greek "ouzo"-- an anise-flavored drink that was really strong! also had a shot of some mextaca or something like that. Very sweet and good! it was fun to stand at the bar and people watch... I definitely needed the popcorn they served us to help finish off the ouzo haha... I think tomorrow we'll try some greek wine. Then back to the hostel, using the illuminated Parthenon as our guide. The streets really do liven up at night!
At Filema, we were warmly welcomed by two avuncular waiters. Tried the "Eggplant salad" -- babaganoush-like dip-- and baked sardines (heads, spines and all!). Absolutely delicious, as were the olives we enjoyed on the house. Our kindly waiter gave us a recommendation for a bar, warned to steer clear of the omonia district ("greek ghetto?") and wished joy and happiness upon us and all our loved ones. So sweet haha
Then we ventured over, past Stygmata square to the Museum of Clycladic Art. Lots of violin-shaped marble sculptures, feminine statues and sculptures (all with arms crossed, knees slight bent -- do they have to go to bathroom? suffering cramps? recently impregnated? all unclear). Early cycladic culture = 32000-2000 BC. So old but look strangely modern. I loved the "stargazer" sculpture -- so simple but with a delicate nose undoubtedly admiring the heavens. According to our guide, these sculptures with "their austere simplicity and abstract quality have inspired artists of the 20th century such as Pablo Picasso, etc." I love all the gold-foil jewelery too. Saw some cool gold haircoils (spiral shaped often), early coins, pottery that threw us back to 6th grade art classes (black figure and red figure varieties). It's amazing that the Greeks used potter wheels (foot powered) way back then. The little glass bottles. we learned, were among the most valued and difficult to make -- they were often used to store perfumes.
At the top floor of the museum we learned all kinds of things about daily life in ancient Greece. "Gymnasium" means "place where you practice sports naked" and most girls married at age 14. The symposiums were gatherings centered around drinking as well as philosophical discussions. Lives of women were closely tied to spinning, weaving and domestic work. The only females allowed into the symposiums were dancers and musicians. The "stadium" footrace was 600 ft long and may have been the only event in the first Olympic games...
In the Cycladic museum, we became extremely exhausted and so after we headed back to the hostel for a brief (nearly 3 hour...) nap. Awoke surprised by refreshed, ventured to a little market to get Greek yogurt and bananas, then scouted out a place to eat. Ended up at the Lonely Planet-recommended "Kanella" (means Cinnamon) in the Gatzi district. Had delicious zucchini-avocado-aged cheese salad, a lettuce-carrot-dill salad in yogurt dressing and a cheese pie (made with several different cheeses and phyllo dough) and their homemade bread. Greeks eat late, we've noticed -- we probably sat down around 8:30pm. After we headed to a bar and asked the bartender what he recommended. Tried traditioned greek "ouzo"-- an anise-flavored drink that was really strong! also had a shot of some mextaca or something like that. Very sweet and good! it was fun to stand at the bar and people watch... I definitely needed the popcorn they served us to help finish off the ouzo haha... I think tomorrow we'll try some greek wine. Then back to the hostel, using the illuminated Parthenon as our guide. The streets really do liven up at night!
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