Sunday 30 de enero
Went for a run through El Retiro this morning -- it's overcast so wasn't too cold but very refreshing. It seems like "todo el mundo" goes running through the park on Sunday mornings! And they all wear neon-colored jackets with spandex leggings haha. At Mediodía I met up with Isabel y Jaime -- the parents of Jaime from Daddy's Sloan program. They were full of energy as we hopped into their cute red volkswagen and headed downtown; I found myself enthusiastically speaking in Spanish almost as rapidly as they did!
Driving down La Calle de Alcalá, I learned that this street, one of the main arteries of the city, is the longest and one of the oldest in the city. When we came upon the Plaza de la Independencia, Isabel pointed out that the two facades of the Puerta de Alcalá monument are actually different (something apparently most Madrileños don't even realize): the columns and archways are rounded when you approach from the east but rectangular and pointed when you approach from the west. The puerta was built in 1778 by Rey Carlos III and designed by the architect Francesco Sabatini (who also designed the gardens of the Palacio Real). Only the king and the Pope are allowed to pass through the central archway, but Jaime pointed out that tourists--like the girls we saw taking photos of each other -- don't know otherwise haha.
Next we encountered the Fuente de Cibeles, also built under Rey Carlos III, with its massive fountain and marble statue of the goddess Cibeles (goddess of fertility), pulled in a chariot by lions (these lions were people, but after they ruined Cibeles's temple, she turned them into animals). She's carrying a scepter and keys to the city. Around this Plaza we have the Banco de España, Buenavista Palace (army headquarters), Casa de América, town hall and the main Post Office. This is where the soccer team Real Madrid celebrates its victories -- these events get so out-of-hand with people trying to chip off pieces of the fountain that the city often sends police to board it up and protect the fountain before, during and after important games. We also drove past the Casino -- like a social club -- where Jaime and Isabel's daughter was married!
Next walked over to Plaza de la Puerta del Sol to check out Kilometre Cero -- the exact point from which the distance of all roads in Spain are measured. It's right in front of the old post office (now house of the Regional gov. of the Comunidad de Madrid) but Jaime said it was once the most hated building in all of Madrid because it was the seat of Franco's State Security forces and operations.
Next we had a whirlwind tour of churches (many of them in the middle of or in between mass services) and plazas! Jaime y Isabel were full of stories about how every street and corner got its name and how the layers of history stacked up. The red brick tower of Iglesia de Santa Cruz (definitely an interesting mix of Moorish and European design elements) was once the tallest building in the city. Very neo-gothic inside, all white-stone. The Virgin Lady of the Pillar is considered "mother of all Hispanic peoples." Next door was the Palacio de Santa Cruz (characterized by typical grey slate spires) where the Ministry of Foreign Affairs sits (though when the building was built in 1643, it was used as the court prison). Then went to Iglesia de San Isidro, a Jesuit Baroque church named in honor of the patron saint of Madrid (and of farmers). Then Iglesia de San Andrés, which San Isidro actually frequented during his lifetime. There's a little chapel adjacent to the church dedicated to San Isidro after he was canonized in 1622. Also went to a little Museo about the origins of Madrid--there was a well inside from which San Isidro saved a little girl (paintings inside depict the story). My favorite of the churches was the Basilica of San Francisco -- a beautiful church with a round nave, and every inch of its ceiling and wall space has been painted with frescoes. It's supposed to be the largest dome in Spain and 4th largest in the world... St. Francis of Assisi is said to have built a chapel here at this site in 1217, but the existing church was designed by Sabatini (once again!). All around the central circular space are huge marble statues of the 12 apostles.
Wanderings through more churches (don't even know their names!) and La Latina -- a neighborhood which got its name from one of Queen Isabel's closest advisors (15th century). This advisor was very well-educated and actually taught Isabel Latin (hence the advisor got her name La Latina).
Next went to Plaza de Villa -- Jaime's favorite plaza; he much prefers it to the current buildings of the "ayuntamiento" (city hall). Also peeked into the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena, next to the Palacio Real. The building was proposed by Carlos 1 in 1518, construction didn't begin until 1879 and it wasn't complete until 1992. Inside, it's very white, neo-gothic and full of chapels belonging to important families, princes, etc. Isabel informed me that every single one of 296 columnas inside the cathedral is topped with a unique capital design. Next visited Palacio Real, or at least it's outside. Then the Plaza de Oriente in between the palace and the royal theater house. This plaza is full of estaturas de todos los Reyes y Reinas of Spain, including all those from Spain even existed (for example, princes of Asturias, etc.) Jaime likes the statues very much. Isabel's family is from Asturias. In the center of the plaza is a giant bronze statue of Felipe IV on a rearing horse. Velasquez designed it and the statue is perfectly balanced (a difficult feat since bronze is so heavy). The front legs are actually hollow to help the statue reach its equilibrium (this was Galileo's idea!).
Next we started our rounds of tapas. First went to a very regal, classic Madrileño tapas bar for vino y gambas y mussels. The to Las Cuevas (caves) for tortilla (watched the cook make the tortilla on a giant stove -- I'm pretty sure tortilla is the only thing made at this place!). Then one last place (the most beautiful cueva I've seen; stone with wood finishings) for jamón (ham) and pimientos (greeen pepppers). Everything was delicious, and I loved being able to sample the food and atmospheres of each different place.
Afterwards, it started to rain a bit so we returned to the car and drove out of the city, up north towards El Pardo, the former seat of Franco's dictatorship. It was amazing how quickly we left the big buildings and busy streets behind and were suddenly surrounded by acres of trees! El Pardo is a royal retreat that "gained infamy" during Franco's time because Franco made it his seat of residence for himself and much of the army. Franco's palacio -- austere, Austrian style -- is surrounded by military barracks. It had been used as an alternative royal residence of the kings before Franco's time. The population, around 4000, is made up primarily of employees of the state or palace. It's very residential and it's actually almost impossible to build new things in El Pardo because it's inside a protected nature space, a regional park. Very nearby is el Palacio de la Zarzuela where the actual, current Rey Juan Carlos I lives. We saw the road leading up to it (and the hunting grounds and tennis courts that surround it) but the Palace is obviously off-limits. They king prefers to live here instead of the Palacio Real (in front of Plaza de Oriente) and so the Palacio Real is only used for big events like EU treaty signings, etc. We also visited church -- Convento de los Padres Capuchinos -- to see the famous wooden sculpture of Jesus by Gregorio Fernández. Isabel pointed out the characteristic open mouth, showing Jesus's teeth. As we drove around, I noticed kots of advertisements to rent out estates for weddings and events. Learned that the "Infanta" is the word for princess "Princesa" is used when there are no sons and so the daughter is the one to inherit the crown.
On our drive back to Madrid, passed through Arguelles and Moncloa and all the huge university buildings before heading back to my home around 6:30. I'm so grateful to Jaime and Isabel for a wonderful tour of the city and its surroundings!
Monday 31 de enero
Flamenco class, first quiz in Los sistemas de salud, got tickets for Morocco later this month, home for lunch. Walked through exhibition at Casa Árabe on my way home -- beautiful pieces on paper, on papyrus, on leather, made of bronze... It was a showcase of Arabic writing as an art form. A very cool little institute -- tucked in a brick building that resembles the tower of the Iglesia de Santa Cruz in the old part of Madrid. I loved the watercolor pieces especially. Afterwards, had Women in Art class (talking about the mystification of sexual violence in Rubens's work "Rape the Daughters of Leucippus"). Prof. Domenech cold-called on me, which was nerve-wracking, but I managed to articulate myself ok and summarize the reading (which was in English) in Spanish.
After class I walked downtown to Testigos de Olvido -- "Witnesses of omission" -- at the Cervantes Institute. It was a human rights exhibition, using film, photographs and journal entries by Spanish-speaking journalists, authors and activists to call attention to abuses of power and extreme poverty in Colombia, Guatemala, Congo, Bangladesh, Somalia, Malaysia, Zimbabwe and Haiti. Since everything was in Spanish, it was definitely good vocab practice and I'd learned about many of these countries and their situations before. I thought the most striking photo was one of a teenage boy living with HIV -- he stands in front of the camera but his face is blurry; instead the camera is focusing on his outstretched palm, in which lie the 2 antiretroviral pills that he takes everyday. Clearly, these pills give him life, but in a way, they are his life too.
Tuesday 1 de febrero
Finished one of my summer job applications!
Watched "Los diarios de motocicleta" in Spanish con Annie. Tapas al Instituto. Spanish class -- talked about la injusticia y los derechos humanos (good followup to the exhibit I visited yesterday!). A little bit of shopping with Annie, then met up with Gustavo en La Plaza de Sol. I think I might have accidentally introduced Gustavo as a "ordenador de fútbol" (a computer of soccer) when I actually meant to say "entrenador de fútbol" (a soccer coach) -- whoops! haha -- hopefully I mumbled enough that no one noticed. First we went to a bar for cervezas and then to a restaurant called Sushi Milaaya in the Huertas neighborhood. The Sushi was good -- obviously not as good as Japan or Fuki Sushi or Jinsho, but the fish was very fresh and I realized how much I'd missed Japanese food! I was pleased we spoke in Spanish the whole time; talked about my homestay, my trip to Valencia, Spanish youth being unable to find jobs, vespas (Gustavo has one), San Sebastian, France, Gustavo's soccer team (today his 14-yr-olds had a tournament), Japanese food, American movies, the Madrid discotecas, my flamenco class (he tried to trick me into thinking I should wear my flamenco skirt in the streets of Madrid...), roller coasters (which are peculiarly called "montañas rusas" or "Russian mountains" here in Spain) and typical Spanish food (next time we're going to try "morcilla" -- a Spanish blood sausage which sounds horrible to me but apparently I can't leave Spain without at least trying it -- and "pulpo gallega" -- octopus from Galicia). Got home around 11 to finish up some homework, shower and go to bed.
Went for a run through El Retiro this morning -- it's overcast so wasn't too cold but very refreshing. It seems like "todo el mundo" goes running through the park on Sunday mornings! And they all wear neon-colored jackets with spandex leggings haha. At Mediodía I met up with Isabel y Jaime -- the parents of Jaime from Daddy's Sloan program. They were full of energy as we hopped into their cute red volkswagen and headed downtown; I found myself enthusiastically speaking in Spanish almost as rapidly as they did!
Driving down La Calle de Alcalá, I learned that this street, one of the main arteries of the city, is the longest and one of the oldest in the city. When we came upon the Plaza de la Independencia, Isabel pointed out that the two facades of the Puerta de Alcalá monument are actually different (something apparently most Madrileños don't even realize): the columns and archways are rounded when you approach from the east but rectangular and pointed when you approach from the west. The puerta was built in 1778 by Rey Carlos III and designed by the architect Francesco Sabatini (who also designed the gardens of the Palacio Real). Only the king and the Pope are allowed to pass through the central archway, but Jaime pointed out that tourists--like the girls we saw taking photos of each other -- don't know otherwise haha.
Next we encountered the Fuente de Cibeles, also built under Rey Carlos III, with its massive fountain and marble statue of the goddess Cibeles (goddess of fertility), pulled in a chariot by lions (these lions were people, but after they ruined Cibeles's temple, she turned them into animals). She's carrying a scepter and keys to the city. Around this Plaza we have the Banco de España, Buenavista Palace (army headquarters), Casa de América, town hall and the main Post Office. This is where the soccer team Real Madrid celebrates its victories -- these events get so out-of-hand with people trying to chip off pieces of the fountain that the city often sends police to board it up and protect the fountain before, during and after important games. We also drove past the Casino -- like a social club -- where Jaime and Isabel's daughter was married!
Next walked over to Plaza de la Puerta del Sol to check out Kilometre Cero -- the exact point from which the distance of all roads in Spain are measured. It's right in front of the old post office (now house of the Regional gov. of the Comunidad de Madrid) but Jaime said it was once the most hated building in all of Madrid because it was the seat of Franco's State Security forces and operations.
Next we had a whirlwind tour of churches (many of them in the middle of or in between mass services) and plazas! Jaime y Isabel were full of stories about how every street and corner got its name and how the layers of history stacked up. The red brick tower of Iglesia de Santa Cruz (definitely an interesting mix of Moorish and European design elements) was once the tallest building in the city. Very neo-gothic inside, all white-stone. The Virgin Lady of the Pillar is considered "mother of all Hispanic peoples." Next door was the Palacio de Santa Cruz (characterized by typical grey slate spires) where the Ministry of Foreign Affairs sits (though when the building was built in 1643, it was used as the court prison). Then went to Iglesia de San Isidro, a Jesuit Baroque church named in honor of the patron saint of Madrid (and of farmers). Then Iglesia de San Andrés, which San Isidro actually frequented during his lifetime. There's a little chapel adjacent to the church dedicated to San Isidro after he was canonized in 1622. Also went to a little Museo about the origins of Madrid--there was a well inside from which San Isidro saved a little girl (paintings inside depict the story). My favorite of the churches was the Basilica of San Francisco -- a beautiful church with a round nave, and every inch of its ceiling and wall space has been painted with frescoes. It's supposed to be the largest dome in Spain and 4th largest in the world... St. Francis of Assisi is said to have built a chapel here at this site in 1217, but the existing church was designed by Sabatini (once again!). All around the central circular space are huge marble statues of the 12 apostles.
Wanderings through more churches (don't even know their names!) and La Latina -- a neighborhood which got its name from one of Queen Isabel's closest advisors (15th century). This advisor was very well-educated and actually taught Isabel Latin (hence the advisor got her name La Latina).
Next went to Plaza de Villa -- Jaime's favorite plaza; he much prefers it to the current buildings of the "ayuntamiento" (city hall). Also peeked into the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena, next to the Palacio Real. The building was proposed by Carlos 1 in 1518, construction didn't begin until 1879 and it wasn't complete until 1992. Inside, it's very white, neo-gothic and full of chapels belonging to important families, princes, etc. Isabel informed me that every single one of 296 columnas inside the cathedral is topped with a unique capital design. Next visited Palacio Real, or at least it's outside. Then the Plaza de Oriente in between the palace and the royal theater house. This plaza is full of estaturas de todos los Reyes y Reinas of Spain, including all those from Spain even existed (for example, princes of Asturias, etc.) Jaime likes the statues very much. Isabel's family is from Asturias. In the center of the plaza is a giant bronze statue of Felipe IV on a rearing horse. Velasquez designed it and the statue is perfectly balanced (a difficult feat since bronze is so heavy). The front legs are actually hollow to help the statue reach its equilibrium (this was Galileo's idea!).
Next we started our rounds of tapas. First went to a very regal, classic Madrileño tapas bar for vino y gambas y mussels. The to Las Cuevas (caves) for tortilla (watched the cook make the tortilla on a giant stove -- I'm pretty sure tortilla is the only thing made at this place!). Then one last place (the most beautiful cueva I've seen; stone with wood finishings) for jamón (ham) and pimientos (greeen pepppers). Everything was delicious, and I loved being able to sample the food and atmospheres of each different place.
Afterwards, it started to rain a bit so we returned to the car and drove out of the city, up north towards El Pardo, the former seat of Franco's dictatorship. It was amazing how quickly we left the big buildings and busy streets behind and were suddenly surrounded by acres of trees! El Pardo is a royal retreat that "gained infamy" during Franco's time because Franco made it his seat of residence for himself and much of the army. Franco's palacio -- austere, Austrian style -- is surrounded by military barracks. It had been used as an alternative royal residence of the kings before Franco's time. The population, around 4000, is made up primarily of employees of the state or palace. It's very residential and it's actually almost impossible to build new things in El Pardo because it's inside a protected nature space, a regional park. Very nearby is el Palacio de la Zarzuela where the actual, current Rey Juan Carlos I lives. We saw the road leading up to it (and the hunting grounds and tennis courts that surround it) but the Palace is obviously off-limits. They king prefers to live here instead of the Palacio Real (in front of Plaza de Oriente) and so the Palacio Real is only used for big events like EU treaty signings, etc. We also visited church -- Convento de los Padres Capuchinos -- to see the famous wooden sculpture of Jesus by Gregorio Fernández. Isabel pointed out the characteristic open mouth, showing Jesus's teeth. As we drove around, I noticed kots of advertisements to rent out estates for weddings and events. Learned that the "Infanta" is the word for princess "Princesa" is used when there are no sons and so the daughter is the one to inherit the crown.
On our drive back to Madrid, passed through Arguelles and Moncloa and all the huge university buildings before heading back to my home around 6:30. I'm so grateful to Jaime and Isabel for a wonderful tour of the city and its surroundings!
Monday 31 de enero
Flamenco class, first quiz in Los sistemas de salud, got tickets for Morocco later this month, home for lunch. Walked through exhibition at Casa Árabe on my way home -- beautiful pieces on paper, on papyrus, on leather, made of bronze... It was a showcase of Arabic writing as an art form. A very cool little institute -- tucked in a brick building that resembles the tower of the Iglesia de Santa Cruz in the old part of Madrid. I loved the watercolor pieces especially. Afterwards, had Women in Art class (talking about the mystification of sexual violence in Rubens's work "Rape the Daughters of Leucippus"). Prof. Domenech cold-called on me, which was nerve-wracking, but I managed to articulate myself ok and summarize the reading (which was in English) in Spanish.
After class I walked downtown to Testigos de Olvido -- "Witnesses of omission" -- at the Cervantes Institute. It was a human rights exhibition, using film, photographs and journal entries by Spanish-speaking journalists, authors and activists to call attention to abuses of power and extreme poverty in Colombia, Guatemala, Congo, Bangladesh, Somalia, Malaysia, Zimbabwe and Haiti. Since everything was in Spanish, it was definitely good vocab practice and I'd learned about many of these countries and their situations before. I thought the most striking photo was one of a teenage boy living with HIV -- he stands in front of the camera but his face is blurry; instead the camera is focusing on his outstretched palm, in which lie the 2 antiretroviral pills that he takes everyday. Clearly, these pills give him life, but in a way, they are his life too.
Tuesday 1 de febrero
Finished one of my summer job applications!
Watched "Los diarios de motocicleta" in Spanish con Annie. Tapas al Instituto. Spanish class -- talked about la injusticia y los derechos humanos (good followup to the exhibit I visited yesterday!). A little bit of shopping with Annie, then met up with Gustavo en La Plaza de Sol. I think I might have accidentally introduced Gustavo as a "ordenador de fútbol" (a computer of soccer) when I actually meant to say "entrenador de fútbol" (a soccer coach) -- whoops! haha -- hopefully I mumbled enough that no one noticed. First we went to a bar for cervezas and then to a restaurant called Sushi Milaaya in the Huertas neighborhood. The Sushi was good -- obviously not as good as Japan or Fuki Sushi or Jinsho, but the fish was very fresh and I realized how much I'd missed Japanese food! I was pleased we spoke in Spanish the whole time; talked about my homestay, my trip to Valencia, Spanish youth being unable to find jobs, vespas (Gustavo has one), San Sebastian, France, Gustavo's soccer team (today his 14-yr-olds had a tournament), Japanese food, American movies, the Madrid discotecas, my flamenco class (he tried to trick me into thinking I should wear my flamenco skirt in the streets of Madrid...), roller coasters (which are peculiarly called "montañas rusas" or "Russian mountains" here in Spain) and typical Spanish food (next time we're going to try "morcilla" -- a Spanish blood sausage which sounds horrible to me but apparently I can't leave Spain without at least trying it -- and "pulpo gallega" -- octopus from Galicia). Got home around 11 to finish up some homework, shower and go to bed.
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