Friday Feb. 11 2011
Flight from Madrid to Marrakech, Morocco on Ryanair. Wow, they really embrace the "dirt cheap, no-frills" ambiance haha. Morocco looks hot and desert-y from the sky, and we approached Marrakech, saw lots of olive tree groves and irrigated green spaces. When we got off the plan, we were greeted by strong sun and a gentle breeze rustling the palm trees. Feels like summer. Exchanged dollars to dirhams. The first cash exchange point in the airport ran out of dirhams so we were hastily redirected to a different counter.
Took a bus to Djemaa el-Fna -- the giant main plaza in Medina, the Old city (outlined by a big wall). The name Djemaa el-Fna actually means "assembly of the dead" because originally (since 1050) it was used for public executions. But it's anything but dead. There are so many carts with dates, nuts, apricots, orange juice (4 dh for a glass--delicious!). Musicians, monkeys, incense vendors -- everyone gathers in this square! In the evening, storytellers, street food "restaurants" and fortune tellers draw more crowds at night. We dodged the donkey carts and trudged with our luggage to the green canopy of Cafe Argana, as directed. Leaving the square, we entered the Derbs (= winding alleys, "urban labyrinth." There are some 3000 of them here! Thanks to a paragraph of detailed instructions printed off the hostel website, we found "Equity point" -- our oasis of a hostel amidst the tiny winding shopping streets.
These were the directions we followed:
"Facing the cafe, take the street immediately to the left. Very soon you willget to an open space. Cross this taking the street on your left under the archway. Pass through the arch and you'll be in Mouassine street. This is a fairly wide street (for the Medina standards), with shops left and right. Walk straight down this street. Soon on your right you'll see a small corner shop called 'Fnaque Berber' followed by another arch, walk directly through it. After approximately 100 meters you'll get to a small open space (or a place where the street widens), once you enter this area you will find a small arch behind and to your right. This is a slight u-turn but do not worry as our street starts there! You can read its name at the top of the arch: 'Derb Laghnaiz Lamouassine'. Pass through the arch and walk down three steps. You're almost there. This street has no shops and in most parts is roofed. Walk and don't leave the wall on your left. After 50-60 meters of walking down this winding street, you'll find a door with our name on it: 'Equity Point'. Welcome!!"
Annie and I settled in our room -- a giant open space we shared with 6 other people. Our two beds we located under a tent-like canopy -- feels very Saharan haha. Then we went out to the streets to explore and find Jonathon, Adam and Ashley. Had some delicious tea from one of the vendors in the market. They offered 10 dh for the tea but I used my bartering skillzz to get 2 glasses of hot, extremely sweet mint tea for me and Jonathon for only 4 dh. Small victories.
Later, ran into Xavier, Britanny and John also at the main square. Got dinner on the square at one of the many food stalls -- they all tried to lure us in with offers in many languages. Had to roll my eyes when I heard one vendor call out "it's finger-lickin' good" in an attempt at an American accent and switch over to "it's bloody delicious, mate" with a British/Australian accent. Then they'd try speaking Spanish to Xavier and French to Brittany -- so confusing! Anyway, our dinner was delicious: genuine Moroccan Chickpea Soup (Castilleja's dining hall does a good job, I must say!), BBQd eggplant, tomato salsa, bread, spinach with olives and a vegetable tangine (a little oily but very flavorful). Enjoyed watching everything and everyone moving around us -- cooks, tourists, vendors, OJ squeezers, photographers, everyone haha. Went back to the hostel afterwards for dessert and lively conversation on the hostel rooftop with a sparkling view of the city.
Saturday Feb. 12 2011
Woke up early with the muezzin call. Actually heard the muezzin call for prayer (adhan) from the many towers around the city. Prayer happens 5 times each day. The big tower (our navigation landmark) is called Koutoubia Minaret and was built in the 12th century. It's name actually means "booksellers" because when the tower was built, there were some 100 booksellers around the tower's base. Has scalloped keystone arches and inspired La Giralda in Seville among others. On top of the tower are three golden balls (now they're copper, but the originals were gold and supposedly given by the sultan's mother in attempt to redeem herself after having eaten during Ramadan). Funny thing about this tower, the original one was built just a little off it's required orientation (to Mecca) so the more pious rulers razed it and built a new one. The excavated remains of the foundation of the old one are on display just a few meters to the side of the existing building. Tried to enter the mosque, but weren't allowed in.
Anyway, had breakfast at the hostel: beghir = spongey pancakes, orange juice and coffee. Then Annie and I set off to explore. Marrakech is also known as "The Pink City." 40% of Moroccans live below the poverty line and it was evident on our morning walk. First visited Bahia Palace. Wood carved ceilings. Beautiful blue, green, white, orange and black tiles. Like the Alhambra but we went early so had it all to ourselves! So peaceful and tranquil. If I could design my own house and garden, it'd be something like this. La Bahia means "the beautiful." Palace construction began in the 1860s by Grand Vizier Si Moussa and then it was embellished by Abu Ahmed. So much intricate paint work, carving, woodwork, inlay. The French colonists also used the palace in the early 20th century. I love how you can get lost in the winding corridors and little rooms of these palaces. The longer and more winding the path to your host, the more important he is. Reminds me of the idea that the destination seems all the more wonderful after a long journey.
Next we wandered through the spice markets -- so many beautiful, colorful, pointed cones of spices! Cardamon, cinnamon, saffron and so many others I can't even name. Stopped at a café for a midmorning snack. Drank delicious banana juice; Annie had avocado juice! Heard shouts of "Balek" = move it, donkey coming through. Exited the old city and came up the Nouvelle Ville, which was built in 1912 for the French colonial elites. This is where the Marrakshi upper-middle class hang out. Cyberpark = a royal garden from the early 18th century which now has free wifi! Lots of orange trees and palm trees.
The sun was high by the time we arrived at Jardin Mejorelle. These gardens were adopted and restored by Yves St. Laurent. YSL called Morocco his "adopted country" and second home after he arrived here in 1966. In fact, he often said "the city taught me color." In 1980 YSL bought the garden that had once belonged to landscape painter Jacques Majorelle. Majorelle had acquired an extensive collection of cacti, plants representing five different continents in his garden and added lots of bold colors (bougainvillea, goldfish, flowering cactus) in 1924. I loved the abundance of colbalt blue, especially right alongside the silvery-green cacti and yellow accents. YSL actually gave the gardens to the city I believe.... Anyway, we enjoyed the shade and the coolness of the colors. There was a beautiful exhibit of Yves St. Laurent's "Love" collages -- he made them and sent them to his friends for the New Year.
There was an excellent little exhibit of Moroccan-inspired fashion by YSL. My favorites:
-Fuschia bougainvillea embroidered cape, 1989
-Black organza dress with gold sequins -- sort of looked like a very elegant Halloween Harry Potter costume haha, 1990
-Yellow, red and pink crepe dress, 1991 -- lovely little capped sleeves. There was another similar dress that looked almost kimono-like too
-Blue green cardigan with crocodile-style embroidery, 1986
** my favorite: "Iridescent Neptune blue chiffon cape with Lichen and Moss-green chiffon dress" 1985 -- love the names of the colors in and of themselves haha
Lunch at a place that didn't hassle us. I was glad to have the peace and quiet.
Afterwards, wandered through the Souqs = covered market streets. Annie and I got a little lost in them as we meandered back from the Majorelle gardens. All the men call out to Annie "Japan" or "konichiwa." The vendors like to try to get you to laugh so they'll make all kind of jokes. Mint tea = "Berber whiskey." We saw lots of leather workers -- actually making shoes from skins that still looked by cows.
Passes by many Riads (Riad = mud-brick courtyard mansion) in the heat of midday. Enjoyed tea with a Moroccan couple at the same tea place in the main plaza. We had mint tea while they had some sort of rosemary brew. They shared salted, dried chickpeas and walnuts with us as a snack. The wife looked to be in her mid-20s while the man must have been at least 45 or 50. He did all the talking -- in French -- asking if we were married and if Annie was from China. Realized hand signals in Morocco are very different from the ones we're used to (I think rubbing two forefingers side by side means to walk?).
Next went to Musée de Marrakech. Saw all kinds of traditional pottery (clay is mixed by foot) and swords. The inner courtyard was beautiful and splendid, filled with leafy plants. Sampled a coconut cookie off the street for 2 dr. Also visited Ali Ben Youssef Medersa (Quranic School) which was founded in 14th century and used to be the biggest in North Africa. It had up to 900 students at a time living here (all sharing one bathroom) -- they had tiny little dorm rooms! Annie and I had fun with our cameras, the afternoon sunlight and al the mashrabiyya (wooden-lattice screen) balconies. The tiled mosaics (zellij) were beautiful.
After a full day of walking, I decided I wanted to spend my last dirhams on a foot massage. Went in search all over the city for a relatively cheap foot massage. Found one for 30 minutes for 100 dh and it felt fantastic after walking around all day! Hammam massages (mud massage) are very common here too though -- we saw them advertised all over the city.
Then met up with Logan at the hostel to go get OJ and then dinner at stall #25. Tangines, eggplant, soup, bread, vegetables and kebabs.
Dessert at Café Agrana. This is where locals come to watch over the square -- brilliantly lit up and busting with people at night. We split a plate of Moroccan pastries -- attempting to guess what kind of dried fruit or nut was featured in each of the seven we received. I like the wonton-shaped almond-rose flavored best. Definitely also tasted fig, cashew, sesame, date, walnuts and pistachio.
Bed at 10pm -- so exhausted.
Sunday 13 february
Woke up breakfast, packed up, last stop for tea, Annie got a henna tattoo and then we boarded our bus to the airport. Picked up a few more Moroccan pastries for the road! Returned to cold weather in Madrid -- maybe it just felt colder because I'd been so warm all weekend haha. but it was good to walk through Buen Retiro, admiring the new colorful "Torres del Alhambra" that were installed in the park over the weekend.
Flight from Madrid to Marrakech, Morocco on Ryanair. Wow, they really embrace the "dirt cheap, no-frills" ambiance haha. Morocco looks hot and desert-y from the sky, and we approached Marrakech, saw lots of olive tree groves and irrigated green spaces. When we got off the plan, we were greeted by strong sun and a gentle breeze rustling the palm trees. Feels like summer. Exchanged dollars to dirhams. The first cash exchange point in the airport ran out of dirhams so we were hastily redirected to a different counter.
Took a bus to Djemaa el-Fna -- the giant main plaza in Medina, the Old city (outlined by a big wall). The name Djemaa el-Fna actually means "assembly of the dead" because originally (since 1050) it was used for public executions. But it's anything but dead. There are so many carts with dates, nuts, apricots, orange juice (4 dh for a glass--delicious!). Musicians, monkeys, incense vendors -- everyone gathers in this square! In the evening, storytellers, street food "restaurants" and fortune tellers draw more crowds at night. We dodged the donkey carts and trudged with our luggage to the green canopy of Cafe Argana, as directed. Leaving the square, we entered the Derbs (= winding alleys, "urban labyrinth." There are some 3000 of them here! Thanks to a paragraph of detailed instructions printed off the hostel website, we found "Equity point" -- our oasis of a hostel amidst the tiny winding shopping streets.
These were the directions we followed:
"Facing the cafe, take the street immediately to the left. Very soon you willget to an open space. Cross this taking the street on your left under the archway. Pass through the arch and you'll be in Mouassine street. This is a fairly wide street (for the Medina standards), with shops left and right. Walk straight down this street. Soon on your right you'll see a small corner shop called 'Fnaque Berber' followed by another arch, walk directly through it. After approximately 100 meters you'll get to a small open space (or a place where the street widens), once you enter this area you will find a small arch behind and to your right. This is a slight u-turn but do not worry as our street starts there! You can read its name at the top of the arch: 'Derb Laghnaiz Lamouassine'. Pass through the arch and walk down three steps. You're almost there. This street has no shops and in most parts is roofed. Walk and don't leave the wall on your left. After 50-60 meters of walking down this winding street, you'll find a door with our name on it: 'Equity Point'. Welcome!!"
Annie and I settled in our room -- a giant open space we shared with 6 other people. Our two beds we located under a tent-like canopy -- feels very Saharan haha. Then we went out to the streets to explore and find Jonathon, Adam and Ashley. Had some delicious tea from one of the vendors in the market. They offered 10 dh for the tea but I used my bartering skillzz to get 2 glasses of hot, extremely sweet mint tea for me and Jonathon for only 4 dh. Small victories.
Later, ran into Xavier, Britanny and John also at the main square. Got dinner on the square at one of the many food stalls -- they all tried to lure us in with offers in many languages. Had to roll my eyes when I heard one vendor call out "it's finger-lickin' good" in an attempt at an American accent and switch over to "it's bloody delicious, mate" with a British/Australian accent. Then they'd try speaking Spanish to Xavier and French to Brittany -- so confusing! Anyway, our dinner was delicious: genuine Moroccan Chickpea Soup (Castilleja's dining hall does a good job, I must say!), BBQd eggplant, tomato salsa, bread, spinach with olives and a vegetable tangine (a little oily but very flavorful). Enjoyed watching everything and everyone moving around us -- cooks, tourists, vendors, OJ squeezers, photographers, everyone haha. Went back to the hostel afterwards for dessert and lively conversation on the hostel rooftop with a sparkling view of the city.
Saturday Feb. 12 2011
Woke up early with the muezzin call. Actually heard the muezzin call for prayer (adhan) from the many towers around the city. Prayer happens 5 times each day. The big tower (our navigation landmark) is called Koutoubia Minaret and was built in the 12th century. It's name actually means "booksellers" because when the tower was built, there were some 100 booksellers around the tower's base. Has scalloped keystone arches and inspired La Giralda in Seville among others. On top of the tower are three golden balls (now they're copper, but the originals were gold and supposedly given by the sultan's mother in attempt to redeem herself after having eaten during Ramadan). Funny thing about this tower, the original one was built just a little off it's required orientation (to Mecca) so the more pious rulers razed it and built a new one. The excavated remains of the foundation of the old one are on display just a few meters to the side of the existing building. Tried to enter the mosque, but weren't allowed in.
Anyway, had breakfast at the hostel: beghir = spongey pancakes, orange juice and coffee. Then Annie and I set off to explore. Marrakech is also known as "The Pink City." 40% of Moroccans live below the poverty line and it was evident on our morning walk. First visited Bahia Palace. Wood carved ceilings. Beautiful blue, green, white, orange and black tiles. Like the Alhambra but we went early so had it all to ourselves! So peaceful and tranquil. If I could design my own house and garden, it'd be something like this. La Bahia means "the beautiful." Palace construction began in the 1860s by Grand Vizier Si Moussa and then it was embellished by Abu Ahmed. So much intricate paint work, carving, woodwork, inlay. The French colonists also used the palace in the early 20th century. I love how you can get lost in the winding corridors and little rooms of these palaces. The longer and more winding the path to your host, the more important he is. Reminds me of the idea that the destination seems all the more wonderful after a long journey.
Next we wandered through the spice markets -- so many beautiful, colorful, pointed cones of spices! Cardamon, cinnamon, saffron and so many others I can't even name. Stopped at a café for a midmorning snack. Drank delicious banana juice; Annie had avocado juice! Heard shouts of "Balek" = move it, donkey coming through. Exited the old city and came up the Nouvelle Ville, which was built in 1912 for the French colonial elites. This is where the Marrakshi upper-middle class hang out. Cyberpark = a royal garden from the early 18th century which now has free wifi! Lots of orange trees and palm trees.
The sun was high by the time we arrived at Jardin Mejorelle. These gardens were adopted and restored by Yves St. Laurent. YSL called Morocco his "adopted country" and second home after he arrived here in 1966. In fact, he often said "the city taught me color." In 1980 YSL bought the garden that had once belonged to landscape painter Jacques Majorelle. Majorelle had acquired an extensive collection of cacti, plants representing five different continents in his garden and added lots of bold colors (bougainvillea, goldfish, flowering cactus) in 1924. I loved the abundance of colbalt blue, especially right alongside the silvery-green cacti and yellow accents. YSL actually gave the gardens to the city I believe.... Anyway, we enjoyed the shade and the coolness of the colors. There was a beautiful exhibit of Yves St. Laurent's "Love" collages -- he made them and sent them to his friends for the New Year.
There was an excellent little exhibit of Moroccan-inspired fashion by YSL. My favorites:
-Fuschia bougainvillea embroidered cape, 1989
-Black organza dress with gold sequins -- sort of looked like a very elegant Halloween Harry Potter costume haha, 1990
-Yellow, red and pink crepe dress, 1991 -- lovely little capped sleeves. There was another similar dress that looked almost kimono-like too
-Blue green cardigan with crocodile-style embroidery, 1986
** my favorite: "Iridescent Neptune blue chiffon cape with Lichen and Moss-green chiffon dress" 1985 -- love the names of the colors in and of themselves haha
Lunch at a place that didn't hassle us. I was glad to have the peace and quiet.
Afterwards, wandered through the Souqs = covered market streets. Annie and I got a little lost in them as we meandered back from the Majorelle gardens. All the men call out to Annie "Japan" or "konichiwa." The vendors like to try to get you to laugh so they'll make all kind of jokes. Mint tea = "Berber whiskey." We saw lots of leather workers -- actually making shoes from skins that still looked by cows.
Passes by many Riads (Riad = mud-brick courtyard mansion) in the heat of midday. Enjoyed tea with a Moroccan couple at the same tea place in the main plaza. We had mint tea while they had some sort of rosemary brew. They shared salted, dried chickpeas and walnuts with us as a snack. The wife looked to be in her mid-20s while the man must have been at least 45 or 50. He did all the talking -- in French -- asking if we were married and if Annie was from China. Realized hand signals in Morocco are very different from the ones we're used to (I think rubbing two forefingers side by side means to walk?).
Next went to Musée de Marrakech. Saw all kinds of traditional pottery (clay is mixed by foot) and swords. The inner courtyard was beautiful and splendid, filled with leafy plants. Sampled a coconut cookie off the street for 2 dr. Also visited Ali Ben Youssef Medersa (Quranic School) which was founded in 14th century and used to be the biggest in North Africa. It had up to 900 students at a time living here (all sharing one bathroom) -- they had tiny little dorm rooms! Annie and I had fun with our cameras, the afternoon sunlight and al the mashrabiyya (wooden-lattice screen) balconies. The tiled mosaics (zellij) were beautiful.
After a full day of walking, I decided I wanted to spend my last dirhams on a foot massage. Went in search all over the city for a relatively cheap foot massage. Found one for 30 minutes for 100 dh and it felt fantastic after walking around all day! Hammam massages (mud massage) are very common here too though -- we saw them advertised all over the city.
Then met up with Logan at the hostel to go get OJ and then dinner at stall #25. Tangines, eggplant, soup, bread, vegetables and kebabs.
Dessert at Café Agrana. This is where locals come to watch over the square -- brilliantly lit up and busting with people at night. We split a plate of Moroccan pastries -- attempting to guess what kind of dried fruit or nut was featured in each of the seven we received. I like the wonton-shaped almond-rose flavored best. Definitely also tasted fig, cashew, sesame, date, walnuts and pistachio.
Bed at 10pm -- so exhausted.
Sunday 13 february
Woke up breakfast, packed up, last stop for tea, Annie got a henna tattoo and then we boarded our bus to the airport. Picked up a few more Moroccan pastries for the road! Returned to cold weather in Madrid -- maybe it just felt colder because I'd been so warm all weekend haha. but it was good to walk through Buen Retiro, admiring the new colorful "Torres del Alhambra" that were installed in the park over the weekend.
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